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Whenever curating a roll of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred venues. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu located in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish eatery, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected food magazine. This recognition has made the family completely astonished.

“I’m utterly shocked,” says the owner’s son, alluding to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their small place achieving such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Charm of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, beyond the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in gradually. As the flavourful mixture bubbles up, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a richer, nuttier and more balanced profile.

Surpassing the Stars

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants listed and is situated well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I believe what is most important is warmth, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a position of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to teach them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to show what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Dedication

Unlike most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Culture

This restaurant’s recognition is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.